Dame Trelise Cooper not so fashion forward?

The grand - and actual - dame of good dressing, Trelise Cooper, is the surprise omission from the list of designers set to grace New Zealand Fashion Week's forward season runways.

For the first time in 15 years, Cooper, who is understood to be holidaying in France, won't be previewing a winter collection at the premiere fashion event.

Last year, the Auckland-based designer sparked a furore when she sent models down the runway wearing Native American headdress.

Cooper, who was named a Dame Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit in last year's New Year honours list, will show an "in the shops now" collection at the public end of Fashion Week.

The 15th annual New Zealand Fashion Week runs from August 24-30 at Auckland's Viaduct Events Centre. Some events - particularly those with forward season collections - are only open to trade and media delegates. A provisional list of the 85 designers who will show across the event, including publicly ticketed shows, was released on Wednesday.

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Wellington label twenty-seven names will open the week. Kate Sylvester, Zambesi, NOM*d, Hailwood, Andrea Moore, Annah Stretton, Ruby, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Project Runway winner Sean Kelly are among the best known designers confirmed to show the clothes we won't be wearing until next winter.

First-timers on the Fashion Week schedule include Auckland's Harman Grubisa, Wellingtonian Lucilla Gray and Sydney-based Third Form. Another new feature this year is the "Choose Wool" show, featuring garments celebrating one of New Zealand's biggest agricultural exports.

Dame Pieter Stewart, fashion week founder, has confirmed this will be her final year as managing director. She said the event remained "a central hub for the local fashion industry".

The newly announced line-up reflected "excellence, innovation and diversity", she said.